Monday, August 5, 2013

Yellowstone (Day 2) - Mammoth Hot Springs and Norris Geyser Basin

I'm likely to be hitting you all with posts from Yellowstone consecutively - it's amazing how remote and inaccessible you are to the world when when you are in this part of the country and now it's catch up time!

Day 2 in Yellowstone was packed with excitement.  As a rule, we always look for Ranger-led programs when we're in National Parks since you learn so much - a hike becomes a real learning experience instead of a walk in the woods.  Graeme, in particular, is always right by the Ranger so he can ask questions or answer them.  It's fun to watch as a parent since we know that the kids are really into learning about what's there instead of looking at things aimlessly.

It was quite a haul up to Mammoth from camp - a good hour if you're not held up by bison.  In our case we were held up by a sedan from Minnesota but I put Gigantibeast into MINI Cooper mode and we made it just in time for the program.  Mammoth was pretty spectacular - we learned about how the hot springs make a brand new rock called travertine.  And in the early days of the park, entrepreneurs would accept trinkets from visitors, set them up in the slow moving water and in a few days the trinkets would be covered in travertine to be returned to the visitor for a price.  Pretty neat.



































As spectacular as Mammoth was, it was our picnic next to the Gardner River that I may remember the most.  The "incident" that happened later in the day still stings a little in the memory banks as a dad, but we'll talk about that later...  For lunch, we were basically shut out of a picnic table at a place called Sheepeaters so out came the picnic blankets and our lunch table was set!  The kids loved to be in the stream - they could care less about eating and quickly made for the cool water.  It was a photographer's dream - the kids and a beautiful landscape and I have a feeling that you may just see a couple pictures from this picnic on our Christmas card this year.
Scarlett almost goes down.  Eventually she did.

I do believe hopping from stone to stone would have lasted all day...

Annalise - step on THAT rock!

Gigantibeast hiding in the woods

































































Norris Geyser Basin & Steamboat Geyser

Steamboat geyser in it's "steam" phase of a major eruption
After our picnic lunch by the river, it was off to Norris Geyser basin which is a huge series of geothermal features whose major attraction is Steamboat Geyser.  Steamboat is the most powerful and highest geyser feature on Earth and will spout to heights of 200-300 feet in the air.  As a comparison, Old Faithful spouts to less than 100 feet.  The only problem with Steamboat is that is very unpredictable and can go years before a "major" eruption.  We arrived to our Ranger led program (which happened to meet at Steamboat) and the Ranger was positively giddy.  I don't know that I've ever seen a Park Ranger so excited.  Why the excitement?  The night before, Steamboat had a major eruption.  

When we arrived (Aug. 1 @ 2 pm) we could see the steam over the tree tops from the road.  We just thought it was a normal "Yellowstone" thing, but it turns out we were seeing Steamboat in it's "steam" phase after the water eruption.  The sound from Steamboat in this phase was impressive.  During it's water phase, the Ranger described it as sounding like a train roaring through the basin and while the steam phase wasn't quite as loud, it rumbled.  It was pretty cool to be here when we were - the last major eruption was in 2005.  That was the year that Graeme was born!

The Olsen's at Steamboat Geyser for a rare geothermal event!
Annalise & Graeme at peace after Steamboat
After Steamboat it was off to explore the rest of Norris Geyser Basin.  We started off on the boardwalks feeling pretty good.  Some of the features here were new to us and we learned about the four basic geothermal features that are here at Yellowstone - geysers, hot springs, mud pots and steam vents.  All of them are dependent on the amount of water present.  Geysers and hots springs have the most water present and mud pots and steam vents have the least amount of water.  Geysers tend to build up pressure over time and erupt; hot springs have a fairly constant amount of water and tend to bubble and have fantastic colors.  Mud pots vary in color and texture based on what the water is passing through on the way to the surface and steam vents are basically small amounts of water that is steamed through a relatively hard, rocky surface.  So there's your basic geology lesson - I'm sure it's more complicated than that, but you get the idea...  
This is a steam vent that looks like mud pot.
But it's a steam vent since steam is present
Aunt Maribeth and Scarlett consoling Annalise
So the Olsen's headed off on the boardwalk and got a little spread out as we typically do on any hike.  I have to take pictures of EVERYTHING and we all sort of check out things differently.  At Stuff & Puff Steam Vent, something went amiss with Graeme & Annalise.  There are differing accounts of the "incident", but the end result was Annalise falling off the

boardwalk into a muddy run-off area from the Stuff & Puff Steam Vent.  Aunt Maribeth was closest to the little ones as she almost always is on a hike and she sprung into action!  Annalise was back on the boardwalk in an instant.  I was a good 50 feet behind the kids around a turn taking pictures at Green Dragon Springs when the commotion started.  All that I knew is that either Laryssa or Scarlett ran back to me yelling, "Annalise fell in!!!!" and it was instant panic.  Mind you, Yellowstone is good about warning signs.  And they make it pretty clear that the ground can break through at any point off of the boardwalk and you can be plunged into scalding hot water.  Many visitors each year are injured because they don't pay close enough attention...  So when I get to Annalise, she's in tears, she's muddy and we're all quickly assessing whether she's burned or frightened.  Her skin's not red and I swish my fingers into the mud she fell in.
Graeme was taking the 5th and refusing to incriminate himself
Thankfully, it's room temperature so her crying is really out of fright.  To this day, no one knows exactly what happened.  Did Graeme push Annalise?  Did Annalise try to push Graeme and she got the fuzzy end of the lolly pop stick?  We'll never know, but one thing is for sure - I wasn't at all happy.  After an appropriate amount of warnings from Mommy, Aunt Maribeth and I about the dangers of all this hot water around us at Yellowstone, Graeme & Annalise acted as if they were home in the back yard.
We had our "cooling off time" as a family in silence; Laryssa & Scarlett were miffed that I wouldn't console Annalise, but it was clear to me that she had forgotten the rules and there's no consoling after that.  We had a hug and a talk eventually, but her big sisters did the consoling.  Just like it should be, I think.

The boardwalk - a good place to walk
when geothermal features are present
After the "incident", Graeme and I eventually bonded with a business teacher from, of all places, Flint, Michigan.  Flint is the hometown of Harlan Foley, a great friend from back home that almost all of Lisa's sibling's (and Lisa and I) have worked for since he runs a successful landscaping business.  We bonded with this business teacher because of a splinter - Graeme had a good one in his finger from running his hand along the railing of the board walk.  A splinter from this boardwalk is a problem due to the sulfur content - geothermal features constantly emit sulfur.  I was trying to push this splinter out by hand and our friendly business teacher from Flint came along and happened to have the perfect pen knife with a small pair of scissors.  I was able to cut a large enough hole in Graeme's finger with those scissors to be able to get the splinter out.  I still can't get over how strong Graeme was.  The kid never cried once and trust me - it didn't happened in 30 seconds with me and a miniature pair of scissors from a borrowed pen-knife.  From a business teacher from Flint, Michigan...  You can't make this stuff up.  By the way, he didn't know Harlan or Harold & Sharon (Harlan's parents), but he did know an Eric Foley.  We'll have to see if that's some relation.
Artist's Paint Pots

After Norris, we decided to hit the Artist's Paint Pots - at 6/10's of a mile, it was short enough to squeeze in and I'm glad we did.

Some of the hot springs at Artist's Paint Pots

The edge of paint pot

A "true" paint pot


So there's a geothermal lesson and a life lesson in one day!  I'm hoping the kids learned both. :)



Yellowstone - (Day 1) - Hike to Yellowstone Lake & Old Faithful

We started Day 1 in Yellowstone at Steamboat Point - it had a great view of Yellowstone lake, a few very active and loud steam vents and access to a decent 3G signal so Lisa could pay some bills online.  It also happened to be near a short hike to let us stretch our legs and see a little bit of Yellowstone far from a road.  The hike itself was through beautiful meadows, a pine forest and out to the lake with a view from a high vantage point.



About a third of the way into our hike



















Graeme worried about this fact more than once on our hike...

The kids explore some yellow bellied marmot habitat -
Laryssa smelled something bad


































Scarlett finds a yellow-bellied marmot

The yellow-bellied marmot

































At the tail end of our hike - these kind of meadows abound in Yellowstone.

Old Faithful

A trip to Yellowstone would be incomplete without seeing Old Faithful.  The fact that it is predictable and is a large geyser make it truly unique, but as a thermal feature it isn't all that impressive.  I can think of more than a dozen other features in the park that are more impressive and beautiful than Old Faithful.  But here she is.  We happened to be downwind of the geyser when it went off (although we weren't when we sat down) so we saw more steam than anything...


A little volcano shaped hot spring in the Old Faithful area

Annalise and "Lucky" the bison around Old Faithful




































The inside of the Old Faithful Inn

The Old Faithful Inn is built completely of lodgepole pine which makes up 80% of the timber in Yellowstone.  We learned on a Ranger led hike later that millions of dollars were spent protecting this original structure during the 1988 fires.  The fires that year destroyed 1/3 of Yellowstone.  This inn was constructed during the winter of 1903-04 and it's construction is a centerpiece of the park.






Graeme the gangsta - he loved that this car matched his clothes
The kids loved that this Pepper White MINI from Alaska
was parked near us when got back to the parking lot!

We ended our day in search of wildlife at dusk close to camp.  We saw elk and deer but no bear.  We were also treated to one of the most impressive lightning storms I've seen.  It was short lived and made for a beautiful sunset which Annalise and Lucky were more than happy to pose in front of.  I have a series of pictures of Annalise hamming it up - too funny!  But, from up here on top of Lake Butte overlook, the devastation from the fires in 1988 were more than obvious.



Sunday, August 4, 2013

Yellowstone! Entry into the park



All of the adults in Gigantibeast were looking forward to this stop more than anything.  I don't think the little ones really had a sense of how much different this stop was going to be, but they were about to.  The park certainly didn't disappoint from the get-go.  Entering from the west, we drove along the Madison River.  The Madison is renowned for it's trout and it wasn't long before Daddy was drooling - especially along the sections that were fly fishing only.  The park itself is massive - 2.2 million acres and the diversity of wildlife and geothermal features was apparent very soon after entering.  Laryssa spotted a moose, we all saw elk and steam would show up at the road side fairly regularly.  Everyone was definitely giddy from the moment we drove in and to say that this was the highlight of our trip would be a huge understatement - as a park it is by far the largest, most beautiful and most diverse experience we have ever had camping.


 The Madison - crystal clear and beautiful by any standard.  As much as I would have loved to fish it (or the Yellowstone or Gibbons) there was too much for the kids and us to see to set aside a half day to find trout.  One evening, while we went in search of the the elusive bear, I watched trout feeding with  abandon on the Yellowstone - even I

could have caught one, I think.  But you also have to have a fishing permit that is solely for Yellowstone Park and it can't be used in Wyoming where I want to fish the Bighorn River.  I'll get that permit here in Thermopolis and fishing is  part of the plan here.












The herd of bison grazing around a creek that feeds the Yellowstone River

As we came closer to camp, we needed to pass through Hayden Valley.  This valley was one of our favorite spots - the rolling hills, the Yellowstone River flowing through it and the wildlife were simply spectacular.  We were very lucky on our ride in - the herd of bison was right there to see.  Next to the road, crossing the road, out in the distance. We even saw one cross the Yellowstone River to join the rest of the herd.  Pretty amazing!

This bison is eyeing the traffic flow.  But he crossed whenever he wanted.

This bull seemed to take particular interest in me...


A Yellowstone traffic jam

One of the herd down near the water

Yep - we were in bear country!

For my MINI friends - at the General store
Annalise still sucking her thumb as we pass by a bison.

Craters of the Moon, Idaho



Well, I'm posting this after we've left Yellowstone - anyone that has ever been to Yellowstone knows that you become quite disconnected from the world when you're there.  No complaints from me - it was nice to to just experience Yellowstone without distractions...

But before Yellowstone we explored Craters of the Moon in Idaho late into the evening on Day 30 of this Odyssey.  An amazing display of past volcanic activity, we were surprised by the number of caves (lava tubes, in this case) and the kids just loved going down in them and exploring.  All except Scarlett who didn't quite like the darkness and confinement.  Can't say that I don't understand her on that one.  Rather than a bunch of pictures, I decided to put together a short 4 minute video of the high lights...

Oh, and why on Earth is Annalise on a Harley?  Cuz the guy who owned it asked her if she needed a seat!

Rejoice!  I have finally been able to upload this video.  Not that I have any Wi-fi here in Custer, but my personal hotspot worked out!  Click on the link below:

Craters of the Moon Official Video